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Coopa-Roca: embroidering the future

Exhibitions in Holland, France and Germany. Appearances at major fashion events in London, Paris and São Paulo. Partnerships with French and British designers. Despite their impressive CV, it’s quite possible that you’ve never heard of this major design company. And, yep, they’re from Brasil. It’s Coopa-Roca, a cooperative of artisans situated in the largest favela in Rio de Janeiro; Rocinha.

Coopa-Roca, which stands for the Handicraft and Sewing Cooperative of Rocinha Ltd., was founded in 1981 to improve conditions for people living in the favela. Using traditional Brasilian techniques such as embroidery, crochet, knotting and patchwork, the seamstresses embroider a better future for their families and for themselves. The cooperative has 100 members who, thanks to their talent and professionalism, have gained an international reputation for the quality of their work and for being an exemplary socially inclusive project.

But there’s more to the cooperative than artistic excellence alone. The group use sophisticated business strategies to assure productivity and to secure important professional partnerships. The craftswomen work from their own homes, fitting their sewing around their household tasks, much like British seamstresses in the 1800s (the first-ever sewing cooperative was set up in Rochdale in 1844 by 28 weavers). The concept withstood the test of time, and cooperatives have gone on to play a major role internationally – organizations like Arts Council England are promoting cooperatives as a means of regenerating communities using their own creative potential.

The brain behind the operation is Marisa Teresa Leal, better known as Tetê, the group’s official entrepreneur. A sociologist and graduate of the Federal University of Rio de Janeiro, she is the creator and coordinator of Coopa-Roca and its thanks to her knack for networking and establishing creative partnerships that the group have forged a solid reputation both inside and out of the favela. Tetê has gained acclaim for her inclusive way of doing business. At a time when NGOs are cropping up across Brasil, Tetê and Coopa-Roca put their money where their mouth is, coming up with the goods. And it’s all thanks to a lot of hard work, talent and vision.

As well as being internationally renowned, the cooperative has also spread its wings back at home in Brasil. In 2002, the group’s work was exhibited at the SESC Belenzinho in Sao Paulo, the largest cultural venue in Brasil. Between August and September this year they took part in the largest cultural event in Brasil at the CCBB in Rio de Janeiro. A range of clothes especially designed for the occasion – created alongside designers from across the world – took up a whole floor at the event, which was one of the most critically acclaimed exhibitions in Brasil in 2007. And the group’s aim is to exhibit some of these clothes abroad as well. They’ve already made it to Paris, fingers crossed they’ll wing their way over to London as well (Tetê just came to the city to promote Coopa-Roca’s works).

Tetê and the seamstresses of Rocinha are living proof that you can restructure an entire community through good old fashioned hard work. Coopa-Roca’s fusion of creativity and professionalism should serve as a lesson for Brasil and the rest of the world.

By Feliphe Lavor