Subscribe to our newsletter:
São Luís: Jesus' Hometown
As Hungry as an Ox
“Pregnant Catirina had a craving for ox tongue. But she wouldn’t eat any old ox; it had to be the best bull on the ranch. When he realized that one of his cattle was missing, the rancher sent out a search party, and that was when he came across the injured bull...” This is the story behind the Bumba-meu-boi festivities that transform the city during June each year, drawing enormous crowds of revelers. Whilst other regions of Brasil have separate June festivities, Bumba-meu-boi is prevalent in Maranhão and neighbouring Pará. Told by groups of performers using dance, music and theatre, it’s a truly unique form of popular entertainment. The origins of the event lie in the area’s mixed European, Indigenous and African heritages, which have fused together over time to create this truly Brasilian celebration.
During the rest of the year, visitors to São Luís will be bombarded by reggae music. Curiously, the Caribbean musical style took off in a big way in the region, and São Luís is known as the Brasilian Jamaica, with its own unique music scene. Seemingly nondescript nightclubs will often have enormous sound systems playing booming music that resounds throughout the city centre. You’ll come across people dancing to reggae music in couples, wining away to the latest local hit.
Away from the city centre, the Lagoa da Jansen is another popular spot. During the day, the park is peaceful and full of families taking leisurely strolls, but during the evening things heat up once the area’s bars open. The music played here is varied, and depending on the day of the week you might hear forró, rock or dance music. A day’s walking and a night’s partying were enough to knock me for six, but luckily I was with a bunch of friends who had made all the necessary arrangements beforhand. We finished off the evening by heading over to Bar Trapiche in Ponta D’Areia, a chilled out bar that’s just the right kind of place to recharge your batteries.
Wherever you are in the world, inevitably there’s a certain time in the evening when hunger pangs will hit you with a vengeance. Luckily, São Luís offers a haven for the famished clubber: the world-famous Sousa’s hot-dog stand. Back in the city centre, everything seemed to come full circle. As I munched on my snack, I moved away from the group and focused on the abandoned streets surrounding me; aware of how little the scenery had changed in the past two centuries. It was then that someone brusquely nudged me and interrupted my train of thought, handing me an ice-cold, pink beverage.
| CONTACT US | | | ABOUT US | | | ADVERTISE |