São Luis do Paraitinga: Thrills intead of glitter
Rules must be obeyed...
In the ‘80s, São Luis de Paraitinga was exhibited on national television as the only city in the country without a Carnival. It shocked the public. The fact soon became a huge joke that spread like wildfire across Brasil. Nevertheless, the beliefs of the locals were stronger still, and the idea of waking up after a night on the town with a pair of horns and a tail was always brushed off with a sign of the cross.
However, after a while, the locals and the town council decided to get together to bring Carnival back to the city, maintaining the traditions of the old festivities. Local musicians took the initiative and organised “The Festival of Marches”, and the population was invited to come up with their own compositions. That was how the marches became something of a regional trademark, and a decree was passed, stating that during the Carnival period, the only rhythm that can be played is the carnivalesque march.
Land of Legends
Sao Luis do Paraitinga has the largest number of story tellers per square metre in the world. The stories, which have been passed on by word of mouth over the centuries, have helped maintain local folkloric and religious traditions. Saci, a fairytale character, is a local hero: a bylaw decreed that the 31st October became known locally as “Saci Day” rather than Halloween, to defend the region’s folklore from the cultural invasion of the witches imported from Europe. The explanation is part of the official decree.
And there’s a lot of festivals to choose from, too. One in particular, dedicated to the Holy Spirit, lasts 10 days between May, June and draws fervent Catholics from across the region. Novenas, colourful flags and processions celebrate the Holy Ghost, but most tourists are more interested in the “Afogado”, a typical dish made out of stewed beef, which is served for free to anyone participating in the festival.
Then there’s the Congada, the Dança de Fitas, Folia de Reis, Pastorinhas, the Catira and Serestas, folkloric celebrations that make São Luis do Paraitinga the last outpost of folk culture in the state of São Paulo.
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