Thrills intead of glitter

Fancy a different Carnival experience. Then join the growing fanbase of little Paraitinga.

A little town on the way to the coast, carved into the mountain range of the Serra do Mar is home to one of the most surprising and enjoyable festivals in the state of Sao Paulo. The bucholic and peaceful São Luis do Paraitinga is invaded on a yearly basis by thousands of revellers who heat up the town during the 4-day-long local Carnival.

The rhythm that attracts around 100 thousand tourists is an unusual one. Forget about the percussive beats of Axé or the cadence of Samba. Even during the downpours that occur every year during this period, people dance the night away to the strident sound of traditional marches.

The city’s main square is taken over by a whirlwind of people from across Brasil. The destination is still relatively unknown abroad, but anyone who’s spent Carnival in São Luis never forgets the experience. “Very vibrant and original. Just like the Brasilian people”, explains Dutch-born Suzanne Reuling.

The small colonial town has a population of some 10 thousand inhabitants, and its historical legacy is visible in the 90 colonial-style mansions spread across the city - which are overrun with merry-makers during Carnival.

There’s lots to see and do in São Luis do Paraitinga. Watching the bands of local revellers dancing through the streets demands stamina, but is always funny. The quick rhythm of the marches is contagious and the lyrics are surprising. The parade never stops, it’s one Carnival bloco after the other. Oreia Seca, Merendão, Pai do Troço and many others get the crowd going. The most famous of all is Juca Teles, founded by artist and composer Benito Campos in 1984.

Carnival may be an obligatory passtime amongst the inhabitants of São Luis today, but the locals weren’t always so comfortable with the festival. In 1910, when Carnival was just starting to take over the streets of the city, Italian priest Monsenhor Ignacio Gioia threatened his flock with eternal damnation. Making the most of the parish’s strong Catholic faith, he declared that anyone who took part in Carnival would have to live with the horns and forked tail that would sprout as a result. The threat made a big impact and the festival was suspended in the city for many years. The historical figure gave his name to the street where the Carnival parade takes place nowadays.

Rules must be obeyed...

In the ‘80s, São Luis de Paraitinga was exhibited on national television as the only city in the country without a Carnival. It shocked the public. The fact soon became a huge joke that spread like wildfire across Brasil. Nevertheless, the beliefs of the locals were stronger still, and the idea of waking up after a night on the town with a pair of horns and a tail was always brushed off with a sign of the cross.

However, after a while, the locals and the town council decided to get together to bring Carnival back to the city, maintaining the traditions of the old festivities. Local musicians took the initiative and organised “The Festival of Marches”, and the population was invited to come up with their own compositions. That was how the marches became something of a regional trademark, and a decree was passed, stating that during the Carnival period, the only rhythm that can be played is the carnivalesque march.

Land of Legends

Sao Luis do Paraitinga has the largest number of story tellers per square metre in the world. The stories, which have been passed on by word of mouth over the centuries, have helped maintain local folkloric and religious traditions. Saci, a fairytale character, is a local hero: a bylaw decreed that the 31st October became known locally as “Saci Day” rather than Halloween, to defend the region’s folklore from the cultural invasion of the witches imported from Europe. The explanation is part of the official decree.

And there’s a lot of festivals to choose from, too. One in particular, dedicated to the Holy Spirit, lasts 10 days between May, June and draws fervent Catholics from across the region. Novenas, colourful flags and processions celebrate the Holy Ghost, but most tourists are more interested in the “Afogado”, a typical dish made out of stewed beef, which is served for free to anyone participating in the festival.

Then there’s the Congada, the Dança de Fitas, Folia de Reis, Pastorinhas, the Catira and Serestas, folkloric celebrations that make São Luis do Paraitinga the last outpost of folk culture in the state of São Paulo.

Escape the Partying

São Luis do Paraitinga used to be an old stop off for traders transporting gold from Northern Minas Gerais. The city never progressed, never went through an industrial revolution, and for this reason managed to preserve its natural beauty.

The mountain landscape and the rivers surrounding the region have meant that eco-tourism has taken off in the area. This natural beauty is all part of the Serra do Mar State Park, a wall of mountains covered in Mata Atlantica that run along the Sao Paulo coastline. The 310 thousand hectares of land have been officially declared Patrimony of Mankind by UNESCO.

The Núcleo Santa Virgínia is situated within the Park, and São Luis do Paraitinga takes up 70% of it. Tourists can check out the 17 exhuberant waterfalls dotted along the Ipiranga, Ribeirão Grande and Paraibuna Rivers. If you’re looking to escape all the partying, you’ll come across some peace and quiet along the riverside trails, where you can splash around in crystal clear water.

Cachaça and canoes

Just 35km from the city centre, cachaça is produced in an archaic fashion, conserving the drink’s handmade flavours. You can get to see how the drink is made and, of course, taste the local product, which is exported to the US and Europe.

Sports fanatics who don’t take a break even during their holidays have a range of activities to choose from. White water rafting is a guaranteed adrenalin-rush. There are two different routes on offer: the shorter one, which takes two hours, is for beginners. The second route takes six hours and the currents are considered professional.

The city now also has a forest assault course. The 1km route includes two flying foxes - the largest being 700m in length - and a wall for climbing. The reward for anyone reaching the end of the course is a trip along the main square, where the old-style mansions of the city’s historical centre are situated.

Where: São Luis do Paraitinga, rodovia Oswaldo Cruz, 171 Km from São Paulo.
When: Carnaval 2007: from the 16 to the 20 February
Where to stay: Local hotels, guesthouses, campsites and rooms to let are always packed. You need to reserve accomodation in advance. For further information, contact
www.paraitinga.com.br.

By Nadia Pontes

Thrills intead of glitter

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