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São Luis do Paraitinga: Thrills intead of glitter

Fancy a different Carnival experience? Then join the growing fanbase of little Paraitinga.

Words by Nádia Pontes
featured on JungleDrums issue 41 January 2007

A little town on the way to the coast, carved into the mountain range of the Serra do Mar is home to one of the most surprising and enjoyable festivals in the state of Sao Paulo. The bucholic and peaceful São Luis do Paraitinga is invaded on a yearly basis by thousands of revellers who heat up the town during the 4-day-long local Carnival.

The rhythm that attracts around 100 thousand tourists is an unusual one. Forget about the percussive beats of Axé or the cadence of Samba. Even during the downpours that occur every year during this period, people dance the night away to the strident sound of traditional marches.

The city’s main square is taken over by a whirlwind of people from across Brasil. The destination is still relatively unknown abroad, but anyone who’s spent Carnival in São Luis never forgets the experience. “Very vibrant and original. Just like the Brasilian people”, explains Dutch-born Suzanne Reuling.

The small colonial town has a population of some 10 thousand inhabitants, and its historical legacy is visible in the 90 colonial-style mansions spread across the city - which are overrun with merry-makers during Carnival.

There’s lots to see and do in São Luis do Paraitinga. Watching the bands of local revellers dancing through the streets demands stamina, but is always funny. The quick rhythm of the marches is contagious and the lyrics are surprising. The parade never stops, it’s one Carnival bloco after the other. Oreia Seca, Merendão, Pai do Troço and many others get the crowd going. The most famous of all is Juca Teles, founded by artist and composer Benito Campos in 1984.

Carnival may be an obligatory passtime amongst the inhabitants of São Luis today, but the locals weren’t always so comfortable with the festival. In 1910, when Carnival was just starting to take over the streets of the city, Italian priest Monsenhor Ignacio Gioia threatened his flock with eternal damnation. Making the most of the parish’s strong Catholic faith, he declared that anyone who took part in Carnival would have to live with the horns and forked tail that would sprout as a result. The threat made a big impact and the festival was suspended in the city for many years. The historical figure gave his name to the street where the Carnival parade takes place nowadays.

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