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MINAS GERAIS AND ITS HIDDEN TREASURE

The journey along the Estrada Real is full of adventures and gastronomic delights

Words: Ana Wambier and Gabriel Silvestre | Pictures: Acervo Instituto Estrada Real

On the side of the last stretch of dirt road leaving the town of São Bartolomeu, a road sign indicates that Ouro Preto is only three kilometres away. If it had existed three hundred years ago, it would have come as a blessed relief to the representatives of the Portuguese Royal Family and the adventurers on their way to the richest city in the colony. Today, the effi cient sign post serves visitors who, driving along in their 4x4s, cycling on their mountain bikes or riding on horseback, are all coming towards the end of the Caminho Velho.

The Estrada Real was constructed at the end of the 17th Century to transport the gold found in the deposits situated in Minas Gerais to the coast, where it would be drained off in ships heading towards Europe. The fi rst route, knowon as Caminho Velho, connected Ouro Preto to Paraty, but later it was substituted by a shorter path, the Caminho Novo, to Rio de Janeiro. Later on, after the discovery of diamonds in the Diamantina region, a new extension was built giving the Estrada Real its inverted 'Y' shape and a total length of 1,633km.

Nowadays, the upkeep of the route is under the jurisdiction of the Estrada Real Institute, a non-profi t organisation created by the Industrial Federation of the State of Minas Gerais (FIEMG), with the express aim of promoting tourism and business opportunities in the 177 towns the road passes through.

doing things the old way | The road is long, that's why there are so many things to see and do along the way. From the extreme north of Diamantina to the fi nal port of call, Rio de Janeiro, the Estrada Real winds its way through areas that seem to have been frozen in time since the colonial period, like the historic cities of Diamantina, Ouro Preto, Mariana and Tiradentes, all possessing impressive baroque architecture and stone pavements. What's more, the route
encompasses dozens of national parks and natural reserves of Mata Atlantica, which contain many breathtaking waterfalls, rivers and lots of caverns.

One of the most interesting ways to travel along the route is the old fashioned way - on horseback, taking in the region’s former plantations, replete in waterfalls, guest houses and historical towns. Several tour operators offer group excursions with experienced guides who will show you around and reveal interesting facts about the region's history, flora and fauna. There are daytrips that focus
on determined areas or longer journeys, taking in different towns with stop-offs at local guest houses.

Many tourism agencies are fl exible, offering a personal touch. Fabio Gontijo, of Master Operator, reveals that horseback rides can be tailored according to the specifi c interests of the traveler. "It's up to the tourist, we offer customised trips. There are people that go from Paraty to Diamantina on horseback and others who just want a quick day out". A four day trip costs approximately £400, including accommodation and transport.

According to Rogério Mendes, of the Estrada Real institute, the full journey from beginning to end lasts about 21 days, which is more than enough time to leisurely get to know all that each spot has to offer. But if time is of the essence, you can pick just one stretch of road. A good option is the route from Paraty to Tiradentes, along the Caminho Velho, which can be traversed in fi ve days or less, if you're traveling in a 4x4.