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Devil’s Paradise - Ilha Grande

Going even further back in time, to the 17th Century, Ilha Grande was invaded by its first wave of criminals; British, French and Dutch pirates, who used the island as a hideout from where they could attack crammed galleons leaving Brasil with shipments of gold and other precious items, heading for Portugal. Today, the island has been redeemed and is embracing a new wave of “foreigners”. Once again, they hail from Britain, France and Holland, as well as from many other countries, in search of treasure. Except that this time, the treasure’s natural; the island’s dazzling beaches and trails.


On the Ecotourism Trail With 106 beaches scattered across its 193km2 expanse, Ilha Grande (which literally means “big island”) lives up to its name. It’s not difficult to get to the island, but it demands some forward thinking. The only way to get there is by sea, via the boats that set off daily from the cities of Angra dos Reis and Mangaratiba. All vehicles must be left behind, because cars and motorbikes are prohibited on the island.

Whoever sets off from Rio de Janeiro, like I did, will have to get up early to travel the 65 miles to Mangaratiba, because the boat leaves at 8am. The effort is soon compensated when you arrive at Vila do Abraão, the island’s informal capital. Palm trees, mango trees and almond trees populate the coast and offer shade to lazy, flea-ridden dogs. This is where most guest houses are concentrated, along with amenities such as restaurants, bars and internet cafés. Tour operators offer boat trips to deserted beaches, and if you’re up for it, the island’s trails take in waterfalls, lakes and breathtaking views of the surrounding landscape.

Ilha Grande’s trails give visitors the chance to soak up the rich diversity of the Atlantic Forest’s flora and fauna. This type of vegetation once covered 15% of Brasil, and is home to some of the planet’s most diverse ecosystems, with over 500 endemic species. You stand a big chance of bumping into parrots, woodpeckers, monkeys and pacas while you’re there.

After an hour and a half walking along one of the easier trails, we arrived at Lopes Mendes beach. A perennial contender on Brasil’s top 100 best beaches list, Lopes Mendes’ fine white sand stretches out for almost two miles, and the water’s perfect for surfing. This was where I chose to spend a large part of my trip, playing football in the afternoon and eating barbecued fish at night.

TAGS

Brazil, trip